Introduction
Banarasi sarees are known worldwide for their elegance, intricate designs, and cultural significance. Originating from Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, these silk sarees have become a symbol of Indian heritage. Banarasi weavers are known for their delicate skills of weaving gold/silver threads into the fine silk base to create exquisite patterns and motifs.
The craftsmanship and diverse types have made Banarasi sarees a favorite among brides and connoisseurs alike. This comprehensive guide will cover the history, origins, materials, various types and price ranges of these royal silk sarees.
History and Origin of Banarasi Sarees
The history of banarasi sarees dates back several centuries when the Mughal rulers patronized the weaving of luxurious raw silk fabrics in Banaras. Banarasi saree originated in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, which was an epicentre for silk trade due to its strategic location whatsappalong the Ganges river. It was during the Mughal era in the 16th-17th century that sophisticated weaving techniques evolved in the city and Banarasi silk began attaining fame across north India and abroad.
The origin of Banarasi sarees can be traced back to this Mughal influence. It is said that during Emperor Akbar's reign, skilled weavers from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadumigrated and settled in Varanasi. They brought with them the expertise of the famed Kanjeevaram silk saree weaving. The craftsmanship was further honed when local Banarasi weavers collaborated with these south Indian weavers. They incorporated Mughal designs featuring paisleys, peacocks, elephants and floral patterns. Additionally, gold and silver zari work became a prominent feature in Banarasi brocades, which were mostly worn by nobility and royalty at court.
Over the years, Banarasi brocades evolved into elegant pure silk sarees as demand grew among the masses. Purnanand Ji, a renowned weaver in the early 18th century, played a pivotal role in popularizing the nine-yard saree style of today’s Banarasi drape. He incorporated themes from Hindu mythology depicting gods and goddess as well as Mughal influences. This new style combining local and foreign influences was highly appreciated by customers. Gradually, Banarasi silk production expanded and several weaving clusters emerged within the city.
The rich tradition of Banarasi weaving was carried forward by generations of weaver families. Their skills were globally recognized, and the saris found new patrons among the Maharajas and elite classes across India. This led Banarasi saris to become not only a vibrant art form but also a symbol of Indian identity and culture synonymous with traditional Indian elegance.
Why Banarasi Sarees Are Famous
Banarasi sarees are famous worldwide for their exquisite craftsmanship and rich silk fabrics inlaid with delicate zari embroidery. The sarees are made of fine mulberry silk, commonly known as tussar silk, which is native to the Banaras region. This silk is durable and has a beautiful shine and drape. The silk threads are hand-spun using traditionalmethods to retain their natural shine and texture.
Gold and silver zari threads are primarily used in Banarasi weaves, along with other materials like resham, cotton, silk and art silk. Banaras is famous for its zari craft with threads as fine as 0.05 mm. This enables weavers to create intricate patterns and motifs. The gold/silver threads are brocaded onto the silk base using intricate techniques like brocade, zardozi and tissue embroidery which make each saree a prized masterpiece.
Some unique features that have made Banarasi sarees famous globally include the fine detailed work with precise outlines of flora and fauna motifs artfully woven into the fabric. Seasonal themes from Hindu mythology like Holi, Ganesh Chaturthi or Dussehra are also depicted. Each motif is laboriously hand embroidered rather than machine-woven, which enhances the value of the final product. Another speciality is the use of traditional dying techniques like bandhej and nakashi to create different hues within a single pattern.
The overall finesse makes Banarasi sarees extremely light and soft to wear despite heavy embroidery. It is these special craftsmanship traits passed through the generations that have elevated Banarasi silk above others to become a pride of India’s cultural heritage and a top choice among brides and elite patrons.
Types of Banarasi Sarees
There are several popular types of Banarasi sarees known for their distinct styles and price ranges. Some commonly found varieties are:
Katan Banarasi
This is a lightweight pure silk Banarasi saree woven with gold/silver zari borders and patterns. It is fluid and comfortable for everyday wear. Price range starts from Rs. 10,000.
Shattir Banarasi
Considered the royal version, shattir sarees have finer brocade work where even the smallest motif is outlined in zari. They are more ornate for festive wear. Price range is approximately Rs. 20,000-Rs. 50,000.
Tissue Banarasi - As the name implies, these sarees have embroidered tissue segments woven into the fabric. Scenes from nature are skillfully recreated on the delicate tissue. Price range goes up to Rs. 70,000.
Kaamdani Banarasi
Recognized for its layered techniques, kaamdani has embroidery on both sides of the fabric. It often uses resham thread for a richer look. Prices can exceed Rs. 1 lakh depending on grandeur of work.
Georgette Banarasi
Light georgette fabric is given Banarasi touch with printed or embroidered zari/resham patterns along the pallu and border. Wallet-friendly at Rs. 5,000-Rs. 15,000.
Organza Banarasi
Sheer organza is made opulent with embroidery. Best suited for summer wedding trousseau. Price range is Rs. 8,000-Rs. 30,000.
Conclusion:
Banarasi sarees are truly a work of exquisite Indian handicraft. Generations of devoted weavers have preserved this regal heritage and globalized its appeal. The diverse history, origin, materials and finesse of craftsmanship sets these silk sarees apart as a symbol of elegance and culture. While prices vary with intensiveness of work, a Banarasi saree remains a prized possession in any bridal trousseau or traditional attire collection. They make a statement everywhere thanks to their enriching tradition spanning centuries since the Mughal era.
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